Catching the Sparkle

The famous Champagne house of Duval-Leroy was founded by Armand Edouard Leroy with the ambition of presenting Champagne in a way that would be reliably consistent year by year. He found the ideal winemaker for the project in M. Duval, and they produced the first vintage of Duval-Leroy Champagne in 1859.

Carol Duval-Leroy: ‘‘I’ve always worked hard to improve the quality of what we put in the bottle and to see that more people around the world are discovering our Champagne.’’

Last week, in its 150th anniversary year, its chairman and chief executive, Carol Duval-Leroy, was guest of honour at a dinner at The Sukhothai Bangkok where three Duval-Leroy cuvees were accompanied by a judiciously matched gourmet menu.

Carol Duval-Leroy became president of the company in 1991 following the premature death of her husband, and on taking over, she took the reins firmly.

Duval-Leroy has always been a house much admired by insiders but without achieving the wider recognition that was its due. Carol Duval-Leroy has been instrumental in seeing the name and the logo - now refreshed for the 150th anniversary - is prominent in 50 countries and served in some 150 Michelin-starred restaurants.

In 2007, she was elected as the first woman to head one of the key Champagne trade organisations, the Association Viticole Champenoise; and as of last year, she is entitled to wear the insignia of a Chevalier de la Legion d'Honneur.

- When you became president of Duval-Leroy in 1991, what did you plan to do?

My wish at that time was to continue the family enterprise and one day hand it on to our sons. I certainly had ambitions for the company. My efforts are always directed towards innovation, but of the kind that respects the traditions we represent: we are still in the same village, still an independent company and still very family-oriented. I've always worked hard to improve the quality of what we put in the bottle and to see that more people around the world are discovering Duval-Leroy.

- Are there many good sparkling wines produced today?

There are and they can be very enjoyable, but they're not Champagne. The Champagne appellation is a very small dot on the world map, which means it has the advantage of scarcity; and production has always been very closely controlled to maintain the highest and most specific standards.

- What makes the difference?

There are many things, but we can start with the soil. Our vines are planted on chalk hillsides, chardonnay on the Cote des Blancs, pinot noir on the neighbouring Montagne de Reims. The chalk soil of Champagne is essential to its character; it retains moisture naturally, so that even in dry years, the roots can find sustenance without irrigation.

- You've been running a big company for 18 years in what is usually seen as a male-dominated business. How does that resonate with you?

Well, we're not really one of the big ones. I think we're about number 10 in Champagne, but at the time when I took over I don't think there was any other company of comparable size whose president was a woman. There is, of course, a tradition of women playing a big role in the development of Champagne, like Veuve Clicquot and Lily Bollinger.

- Do you feel that you're in that tradition?

It's too early to say; I still have along way to go. But I'd like to be, and I hope I will be. There is a difference, though. I am someone who likes to be out in the field, literally, in the vineyard or the winery.

- Are there many women working at Duval-Leroy?

Yes, 43 percent of our people are women, and that number includes the one who is absolutely crucial: the Chef des Caves, the director of the cellars.

- What is the special role of the Chef des Caves?

She and her team will taste up to 250 still wines to select the 15 or so still wines that will be blended to make the Champagne styles we offer. This is critically important as every champagne has its own distinctive house style. Whatever changes in conditions different years may bring, Duval-Leroy Brut will always be exactly the same style and quality, so that customers can rely on it absolutely.

- We don't seem to do much Champagne here. How do you respond to that?

You could have said the same about Japan 30 years ago. No one knew much about it then, but today Japan is a big market for us and for Champagne generally. There is no reason why it shouldn't be the same here. It's a matter of education and being able to make the right choices.

- What do you say about Champagne as a food wine?

I'd say it's perfect. It's always refreshing, it cleanses the palate and never overshadows the taste of the food. There are different styles of Champagne from light and delicate to bold and robust, so they will suit many different styles of food. I think we've already proved that it's very good with Asian food.

At this point, there was a general stir of movement as we were urged in the direction of the private room, where non-vintage Duval-Leroy Brut was being served in anticipation of the first course.

This was the one and only Champagne selected by Wine Spectator to be included in its 2008 Top 100 classification. It is a blend of all three Champagne grape varieties - pinot noir, meuniere and chardonnay - with a straw-gold robe, streams of tight bubbles, a brilliant nose and a rich, creamy mouthfeel. It was well balanced and well structured with yeasty, fruit and sweet spice flavours ending in a long clean finish. It took very kindly to the assertive marine taste of Botan shrimp tartare with smoked caviar and vodka cream.

More seafood followed, somewhat gentler in flavour, sauteed Hokkaido scallops, petits pois and Champagne emulsion, with the Duval-Leroy NV Paris Cuvee in its plump, seductively shaped bottle adorned with a 'Paris je t'aime' image in gold printed on its blue glass. This collector's item was specially designed by American artist, Leroy Nieman, and its contents exhibited a rich palate of fruit, honeysuckle and hazelnuts.

Roast duck breast with roses and strawberries was an inspired pairing with Duval-Leroy Rose de Saignee. A rose Champagne can be made simply by adding in a proportion of red wine, but 'saignee' is a more delicate affair by which the pinot noir grapes are left on their skins long enough to create the desired volume of colour - in this case a delightfully pale, peachy pink.

The palate of berry fruit was rich, creamy and vinous, balanced by fresh acidity. In combination with the sweetness of duck meat and the perfume of roses it achieved an enchanting harmony.

This and the Duval-Leroy Brut are both available at good quality restaurants and resorts in Thailand, and at invitingly modest prices - 2,499 baht for the Brut, 2,799 for the Rose - at Central Wine Cellar, Central Food Hall and Tops.